Like you, here we are with tons of time to spend with our families during the COVID-19 pandemic craziness. The rules for what you can or cannot do differ by country and even state but, currently, the state of Hessen in Germany is allowing people to be out and about with their families, or one other person. As a result, we are taking to the trails. Because the weather has been so amazing we are finding local trails fairly crowded and seeking out alternative hikes nearby.
Within just a few kilometers from our house, three medieval castles sit perched on hills with more or less a route connecting all three. After hiking this trail with friends last year, I suggested the family go. My family finally relented and humored me for the afternoon outing. Overall, it was a nice hike with only minimal complaining towards the end.
The 3 BurgenWeg (3 Castle Way) trail links the Kronberg, Konigstein, and Falkenstein Castles. This 11-km hike takes approximately three hours, up and down several hills and through the three small towns. If you choose to visit and tour all the castles, then plan for more time.
There is no right place to start. Pick a castle and begin. Once you hike up to one castle you follow the “trail” to the next. I use the term trail loosely because there are times it’s a bit unclear as to the route, mainly through Kronberg.
Castle 1: Burgruine Falkenstein
For this hike, we started in Falkenstein. We parked along the road in a nearby neighborhood and began the hike to the top of the hill. Driving into Falkenstein gets you almost to the top so keep that in mind when you’re finishing the 11-km loop as the last few kilometres are almost uphill. The kids remarked we should have parked at the bottom of the hill.
Built in the mid-14th century by the Lords of Falkenstein, the entire castle ruins (not during COVID 19 restrictions) are open daily March to October from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. From November to February, the castle complex is only open on weekends from 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (Adults €2, Children €1.) On occasion, the tower is open to climb.
Around the corner from the castle is the Dettweiler Temple, a lovely lookout point, perfect spot for a picnic or photos. The walk down the hill is nice and woodsy with lots of possible paths into Königstein. Don’t miss the other lookout spot to get a view of the Burgruine Königstein. Don’t get too hung up on the right path into town as all the roads seem to lead there, and the good news is you can see your next destination which you will reach through town.
Related: Don’t Overlook the Ancient Roman Fort of Saalburg in the German Taunus
Castle 2: Burgruine Königstein
Once in the town of Königstein, (when shops are open) there are a few options for Eiscafe and delicious food, including takeout for a picnic. Pass through one of passages and head up the hill to the castle. This is the shorter way and passes through the Kurpark. If you have time, go down the main street of town through the arch and approach the castle from the northern side. (The trail begins near the hospital.) It’s a nicer but longer walk.
Over the centuries, the castle was redesigned and expanded. Built in the 13th century by the Lords of Falkenstein, it later was turned into a residential palace of the Electors of Mainz. Due to the destruction by the French at the end of the 18th century, the castle appears today as a ruin. This second largest fortress ruin in Germany offers a great panorama with a view of the Rhine-Main and the Taunus forests. Every year on the weekend after Ascension Day, the large Königstein knight tournament takes place on the castle grounds. . .but likely not this year.
The castle ruins are open daily from April to October from 9 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. From November to March, the castle complex is only open on weekends from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Adults €3, Children €1.50.) Allow for at least 30 minutes when exploring the castle grounds. Even my teenagers enjoyed exploring the ruins and climbing through a few tunnels.
Related: Castle Ruins: Königstein
Castle 3: Burg Kronberg
After visiting the castle, walk back into town and up towards the Königstein roundabout and along the 455. The walk to Kronberg castle is a longer one, and it goes through a zoo. (For our April walk, we were unable to pass through the zoo.) Then follow Philosophenweg up towards the castle. We took a bit of detour up another hill and then back down along some gardens. The good news is because you can see your destination (oh, and Google) it’s easier to find.
About 2 hours into the hike, my kids finally started talking with each other.
We wandered through the narrow medieval streets of Kronberg towards the castle. Burg Kronberg, a high medieval rock castle from the 13th century, is the oldest surviving component is the 42m high free-standing keep. The keep is accessible and some Taunus experts swear that the Kronberg tower has the most beautiful view of the Rhine-Main area. In 2008 the newly designed castle museum was opened in the main building of the Mittelburg. The inside is beautifully restored and events and performances are often held here.
Starting in April, the castle complex is open Wednesday through Saturday from 1 pm to 5 pm and Sundays from 11 a.m to 6 p.m. (Adults €3, Children €1.50.) During opening hours, there are guided tours of the castle museum for a few extra euros. Admission to the outside area and museum of the town’s history: € 4/ reduced rate € 2/ families € 8.
If you have time to visit the castle, it’s worth a stop. If not, continue on back to Falkenstein. While most of the hike will be through the Kronberg neighborhoods, they are worth a view as well. These grandiose homes are about as glam as it gets around here. There are several options to get to Falkenstein. Following Vikoriastrasse up into the hills towards the old Jewish cemetery is likely the most interesting. Google maps are pretty good with giving you shorter options if needed.
All photos ©Linda Kerr, TravelTeening
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